Empowering women, reviving tradition: BMUS and story of Bihar’s rich craft legacy

"Design creates culture. Culture shapes values. Values determine the future."

-Robert L Peters, designer and author

Art and design have always been significant expressions of culture and identity, deeply influencing the way communities perceive themselves and communicate their values.

Bihar, a state renowned for its rich cultural heritage, the Bihar Mahila Udyog Sangh (BMUS) has become a pioneering force, dedicated to reviving traditional crafts while empowering women entrepreneurs.

Established in 1995 by a group of visionary women, BMUS is the premier apex body for women entrepreneurs in the state, offering them a priceless platform to sell their products and services.

Under the leadership of Usha Jha today, BMUS continues to expand, recognizing lost crafts and promoting economic independence for women.

Jha herself deals in Madhubani painting, which is a craft with its own inherent mythological and cultural importance. Through her endeavor Petals Craft, she still makes and sells this symbolic craft both domestically and abroad.

“Madhubani painting stands out because of its vibrant colors, intricate detailing, and deep cultural narratives rooted in folklore and mythology. Unlike many art forms, it is traditionally practiced by women and has been passed down through generations. Similarly, Bihar’s crafts are unique due to their connection with nature, sustainability, and historical significance,” said Jha.

She highlighted that Bihar boasts a rich cultural heritage of traditional crafts, but many of the artisans, especially women, are struggling because they have little access to markets, training, and economic independence.

“My passion for preserving our cultural legacy and empowering women economically motivated me to work in this sector. Through BMUS, we create opportunities for women artisans to sustain their craft, gain financial stability, and contribute to Bihar’s economy,” said Jha.

The Sangh has two major objectives: enabling women to become entrepreneurs and development at the community level. BMUS assists women in creating their own enterprises, providing support in developing their crafts into commercially viable businesses.

In essence, BMUS's vision is to have a strong and influential voice of women entrepreneurs in Bihar.

BMUS offers complete support to enable women entrepreneurs with multiple initiatives, including skill development programs for better craftsmanship, exposure to the market through exhibitions and online marketing to increase reach, and monetary help that facilitates them to reach microfinance and government schemes.

Sangh seeks to develop a successful ecosystem in which women entrepreneurs can expand, maintain, and scale their businesses successfully.

“BMUS runs awareness programs to educate artisans about business management and digital marketing, equipping them with the tools they need to thrive in today’s market and gain financial independence. This empowerment not only contributes to the state's economic growth but also preserves and promotes some of Bihar’s most treasured traditional crafts,” Jha added.

Ambika Deo, founder of Ink.Company, a fashion apparel company that delivers high-quality customized t-shirts, hoodies, and polo t-shirts for startups, corporates, and individuals, said she has always believed that with the right support, women entrepreneurs can thrive and, in doing so, create wealth and employment opportunities for many people.

As an executive member of BMUS, Ambika supports the team in managing various aspects of the events, workshops, and other initiatives organized by the organization.

"As an organization, we organize various events throughout the year to promote women entrepreneurs and their businesses. Many of these events receive support from government organizations in the form of financial aid and various schemes. To ensure smooth processing, additional information and documents need to be properly filed," said Deo.

Through Ink.Company, Deo aims to help startups and corporates understand the value of high-quality apparel for their teams and how it can strengthen their brand. She also aspires to create a globally recognized fashion brand from Bihar, known for its premium fashion products.

Reviving traditional crafts: A cultural renaissance

One of BMUS's most remarkable accomplishments has been its dedication to reviving Bihar's endangered traditional crafts. Through unwavering determination, the organization has breathed new life into exquisite art forms like Madhubani painting, Manjusha art, Sikki grass work, and Sujani embroidery. These once-dying crafts are now flourishing, reclaiming their rightful place at the heart of Bihar's cultural landscape, shining brightly for the world to appreciate.

1. Madhubani Painting: One of Bihar's most renowned traditional arts and world-famous for its complex design. Characterized by its bold lines, bright colors, and detailed patterns, the art form often illustrates mythological narratives, nature, and social subjects. With a timeline of over 2,500 years, Madhubani painting is of extreme cultural importance.

2. Manjusha Art: A centuries-old narrative art form of Bihar enjoys a special place in the cultural heritage of the state. The painting technique is employed to retell folk narratives, myths, and religious legends with the help of bright colors, detailed patterns, and symbolic designs. The art form is traditionally executed on handcrafted paper or fabric, and its origin can be traced back to the glorious cultural past of the region.

3. Sikki Grass Work: A traditional art that entails the making of fine handwoven products from the natural fibers of Sikki grass. The craft is known for its fine designs and bright colors, with craftsmen producing various products, including baskets, mats, dolls, and ornaments. Weaving Sikki grass is a skillful process that demands patience, and hence each product is distinctive.

4. Sujani Embroidery: An age-old tradition in Bihar well known for an unorthodox mode of quilting. Sujani is distinct for its vibrancy of hues and its motifs of geometrics, generally bearing the tale of rural women and their lives.

5. Terracotta and handloom weaving: Terracotta and handloom weaving are integral parts of Bihar's rich craft tradition, and both are critical components of the state's cultural identity. Terracotta crafts include intricate clay sculptures, pottery, and ornamental pieces, which at times depict local customs, religious motifs, and historical episodes.

Handloom weaving, on the other hand, in Bihar is well-known for its production of fine fabrics like silks and cotton cloth using age-old techniques that have been inherited over generations.

BMUS has not only revived ancient crafts but also introduced new designs and modern techniques, ensuring that these crafts remain preserved yet relevant.

Jha pointed to the interaction between traditional crafts and modern design in the market today.

“Traditional crafts have a timeless appeal, but to remain relevant, they must evolve. By integrating modern aesthetics, product innovation, and contemporary utility, we make these crafts more marketable. Designers today blend traditional motifs with modern fabrics, creating a bridge between heritage and contemporary fashion,” she said.

The organization conducts workshops, training sessions, and seminars aimed at enhancing both business and technical skills. These initiatives are vital in enabling artisans to develop quality products, keep abreast of market trends, and acquire useful business management skills.

Dr Sadhana Jha is the Founder-Director of Ankuram Robo Pvt. Ltd. and also serves as the Executive Director of BMUS, assisting with the organization’s various activities such as melas, training programs, seminars, and meetings.

Ankuram Robo Pvt. Ltd. provides training in robotics, artificial intelligence, and 3D printing to students aged 6 to 16 years.

“Since its inception, BMUS has been a vital platform for women entrepreneurs, providing them the opportunity to showcase their products and build networks for their businesses,” said Sadhana.

BMUS's training schemes also include crucial areas like business management, marketing, and pricing, which prepare women to manage their enterprises successfully.

The training workshops expose women to new concepts, which assist artisans in integrating fresh approaches into age-old skills without compromising their cultural essence.

Jha said that BMUS provides artisans with an opportunity to extend their market beyond local levels and gain global exposure through its association with national and international organizations to promote Bihar's craft worldwide.

The project engages actively in trade fairs and exhibitions and brings artisans together with potential consumers.

Nikita Agarwal, founder of Kanjilal Funds and Securities House and an executive member of Bihar Mahila Udyog Sangh (BMUS), said, “I joined this platform to connect with women entrepreneurs and contribute to their financial growth.”

“BMUS opened my vision to the vast potential of women-led businesses, where I saw women from diverse backgrounds stepping forward with remarkable entrepreneurial skills. Their passion and determination inspired me to work towards holistic empowerment, ensuring that women start their businesses and also sustain and scale them successfully,” she added.

In her interactions with these entrepreneurs, Agarwal realized that while many women excel in their products and services, they often struggle with compliance, taxation, and financial management. Despite their talent and hard work, a lack of financial awareness frequently holds them back from maximizing their business potential.

“Through BMUS, I aim to bridge this gap by guiding women on investment strategies, business compliance, and financial planning, ensuring they are well-equipped to handle the financial aspects of their ventures,” Agarwal added.

BMUS also leverages online marketplaces such as Amazon, Flipkart, and niche craft platforms to increase their visibility. Moreover, the organization fosters export operations through collaborations with international craft organizations and branding and storytelling efforts to showcase the cultural value of Bihar's crafts.

These initiatives make sure that the artisans' products find a global presence, generating new possibilities for development and recognition.

Sangh adopts a "Heritage with Innovation" strategy to assist artisans in meeting the need to preserve traditional skills with the demand to keep pace with contemporary market trends.

“This strategy encourages artisans to use organic and eco-friendly materials, catering to the growing demand for sustainable products. BMUS collaborates with designers to create fusion products, such as Madhubani art on sarees and home décor, blending tradition with contemporary styles,” said Jha.

“The organization trains artisans in modern business skills, pricing strategies, and market trends to enhance their competitiveness. Digital storytelling is also encouraged to preserve the cultural essence of the crafts while making them more marketable in today’s global marketplace,” she added.

By enhancing digital marketing initiatives and increasing the online presence of its members, the Sangh aims to further promote Bihar’s traditional crafts and women entrepreneurs. These efforts will help ensure that Bihar’s handicrafts continue to thrive on the global stage.

“Digital marketing has transformed opportunities for women entrepreneurs. Earlier, they relied on local markets, but now, platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Amazon enable them to sell across India and globally. BMUS trains women to leverage these platforms, empowering them to become independent business owners,” said Jha.

The BMUS is a strong model of economic independence through art and design, together with culture preservation and social transformation.

The vision of BMUS is to establish BMUS as a national model for women-led craft entrepreneurship with a focus on empowering women and transforming the craft industry in Bihar.

The aim is to position Bihar as the world's haven for handcrafted products, assuring financial independence to thousands of women artisans.

BMUS also envisions developing a dedicated e-commerce platform for promoting the crafts of contemporary Bihar and ensuring that the traditional crafts of the region receive Geographical Indication (GI) protection to preserve their authenticity and heritage.

Through all these processes, BMUS attempts to effect change on a more permanent basis for the betterment of women and the